Canada - East Coast

Canada – East Coast:

Halifax: We were invited to stay with Roy, his wife Anna and their over-enthusiastic playful mutt Bella while in Halifax. I met Roy and his best friend Peter while paddling down the Nahanni River in the North West Territories. Every morning we had our competitive banter as to who could get the first cup of coffee made from the brown water of the Nahanni River. He has a very nice house next to a lake on the outskirts of Halifax where we stayed for 2 nights. As we took the red eye from Calgary we arrived at his place very tired in, would you believe it, yet another Jeep Grand Cherokee! Even though Roy’s coffee was strong and his conversation both intelligent and enlightening we struggled to stay awake so had to retire to bed for a morning nap. The good news was that Peter was also on a flight to Halifax and was going to spend the weekend with us. Peter was my repetitive harmonica buddy that aided the mental decline of a few on the trip – just joking Pete!

Feeling refreshed we got up from our nap and had some lunch while waiting for Roy to return from the airport with Peter. The challenges and hardships of the Nahanni built a friendship between us and I was over the moon to see both Roy and Peter at the same time. As there was still daylight left I took Gillian for a paddle on the lake in Roy’s canoe. I’ve really missed paddling in the wilderness and it was nice feeling the familiar movement of the canoe sliding over the water, propelled by a J-stroke. Paparazzi Pete was on the shore taking pictures of us and took the time to share a few techniques and tips with me. For dinner Roy had a few surprises in store: fresh lobster washed down with his personal stash of home brewed beer and wine. We were given instruction on how to dismantle a lobster and straight away we got crackin’, creating a lot of mess. Our lobster dinner was delicious and it was made even better with good company and wine. With our bellies full it was time to view a slideshow of our Nahanni canoeing trip as well as make a plan for the next day.

The next day Roy took us hiking along the rugged Nova Scotia coast at a place called Duncan’s Cove. It was a beautiful spot with rugged coastline and crashing waves which at times I could feel vibrating the ground below me. I found Bella, the leggy black poodle, very entertaining as she darted around like a little child. After our hike we felt like we’d earned a pub lunch which we had near the habour in Halifax. The Canadian East Coast is known for its seafood and we were intending to eat as much as possible. Not wanting to spoil Roy’s big dinner of rotisserie chicken we shared a few bacon wrapped scallops, fish bites and cheesy nachos. From there we went for a walk along the waterfront where Gillian got tempted by Cows ice cream - it doesn’t take much anyway. Next up was a visit at the MEC Store to stock up on camping gas and back home via a visit to Anna’s alternative medicine shop.    

           

Back home it was time for Roy to prep his free-range rotisserie chicken which was the size of a young ostrich. Yet again we were issued with a cold home brewed beer or wine while chatting away – Canadian hospitality at its best! The chicken came out a treat and after dinner we sat outside next to a fire sipping on something stronger with their neighbours. All too soon our time with Roy, Peter and Anna came to an end so we had to say our goodbyes. Roy, if you are reading this, thanks for your hospitality and for showing us a good time while we were in Halifax!       

   

Cape Breton - Whycocomagh: : From Halifax we drove north along route – all the way up to Cape Breton. Along the way the skies grew darker and things didn’t look too good for our stay. There were many coves along the rugged coastline as we drove, each with its own name. Most were inhabited by small fishing communities with iconic red roofed houses. There were also many derelict wooden buildings, spired churches and well groomed cemeteries along the way. What we also got to see a lot of were countless amounts of trees, lakes and rocks. We booked into a small B&B with a friendly old lady called Mary and her two fluffy fat cats. Not long after we arrived it started to rain so we retired to the safety of our room. I was fairly tired from driving so that night we didn’t do much other than chilling out and watching TV.

It continued to rain during the night and didn’t stop as we drove to Meat Cove at the very top of Cape Breton. Taking the slightly longer, more scenic route was pointless as not only was it raining, but we couldn’t see a thing with the heavy fog blocking our views. Reaching the small town of Neil’s Harbor we intended to have lunch at a small restaurant called the Chowder House. They were not yet open for the season so we had to find another place which ended up being a good thing as their food were very nice - I had a fish burger while Gillian had seafood chowder. With our batteries recharged we drove the final stretch to Meat Cove.

Meat Cove: Even with it raining and with the limited visibility we had, I could see that Meat Cove was a beautiful spot. Nestled in a valley between tree covered mountains, it had steep rocky cliffs dropping down into the sea. Dotting the surface of the water were seemingly countless buoys attached to iconic half dome shaped lobster pots which we saw many of along the way. Getting wet wasn’t on our agenda ruling out camping for that night. Instead, we found a cute wood hunting cabin with a killer view over the cove where we settled in for the night. The rain did at least stop for a short period allowing us to go for a hike next to the beach. The wooden boardwalk leading down to the beach was in dire need of repairs as the river had washed most of it away. A local lady told us that there had been a flood which washed away the bridge and also a few houses the previous August!

We spent most of our time in the cabin catching up on our photo editing and blogs using their free internet. Funnily enough, the strength of the wi-fi signal was dictated by the levels of fog blocking out reception from the main antenna. The next morning it was still cold and raining so a cup of strong black coffee and hot oats were in order. As it was yet again pretty pointless doing any sightseeing we spent most of the morning chilling out. We had a few short hikes lined up for that day so were hoping that the rain would clear. Our supposed scenic drive through the park was mostly a wash out although there were a few short clearer spells. We took these opportunities to take a few photos and go on a short hike along the way.

Apparently there are lots of moose on the island although the only ones we got to see were those on the “Beware of the moose” signs. With the hiking abandoned we stopped off in Cheticamp to sample local Acadian dishes. Acadians are French colonists who settled in PEI back in the 17th century. For starters we had grilled prawn and scallop skewers and seafood chowder followed by a sampler plate of meat pie, blood pudding, beef stew, baked beans and a fish cake. The food at least was an opposite experience to the weather and we thoroughly enjoyed it.   

Next up was a stop at Glenora Distillery where we learnt about its history. I wasn’t overly impressed with the tour as we only got to sample one whiskey and it felt a little rushed. They have a long way to go to compete with either Irish or Scottish whiskey. At least it was in a nice setting we got to learn a little about distillation techniques in general. As it was getting late it was time for us to move on and find accommodation for the night. Camping was yet again ruled out because of the rain so we drove onwards trying to find a dry spot for the night.      

Port Hastings: All I can say about the town is that it is a God forsaken hole of a place. The whole town was littered with overprized motels and fast food joints – we tried to stay at the cheapest motel but found it was abandoned and derelict. We only stopped in Port Hastings as we needed a place to stay for the night and eventually we found one which suited out budget and we settled in for the night. We slept little as the toilet’s refill valve was broken and the water squirted noisily throughout the night. On an optimistic note though, at least we were dry.  

Prince Edward Island: Our drive from Port Hastings to the ferry was mostly in thick fog. At the time I was getting seriously bored with the rain as it seemed we had a vengeful black cloud following us around. Arriving early for the ferry we stopped off at a Tim Horton’s for a coffee. Now I know Canadians are very proud of Tim Hortons although I have to say that my coffee tasted very bad. All I wanted was a normal cappuccino which they couldn’t do and gave me a flavored concoction instead which didn’t taste of coffee at all. Lesson learnt: always go for their normal coffees as those are at least pretty good. The ferry across took us about an hour and a half after which we went to do some wine tasting at Rossignol Estate Winery. They are known for producing some interesting fruit wines and mead which wasn’t bad although their normal wines tasted terrible – we didn’t buy anything. At least the clouds parted and the sun came out to play, lifting our moods. Our next stop was for lunch at a small restaurant called Brehauts in the small town of Murray Harbor. We decided to try a few samplers and ordered their seafood chowder, fish and chips, lobster burger and local, asking-for-a-heart-attack dish, called “poutine” - chips covered in unhealthy amounts of cheese and gravy. The food tasted great and we were looking forward eating lots more in the days to come.    

Montague: We booked into a B&B with a lovely energetic old lady called Zita, and we couldn’t help but laugh at her funny stories. I was impressed with her enthusiasm and love for life as she told us how she climbed a high mountain the year before! We decided to go for a walk next to the river to get some fresh air and quickly discovered that we weren’t along. Sharing the path with us were swarms of hungry mosquitoes. I was wondering why people would actually want to live on the island as tourist season only lasts 2 months which is when the hordes of “skeeters” came out to feast… 

PEI is a very flat island and well known for its cycling routes. Gillian was keen to get on a bike again so we rented two from a guy in town. Covered in bug spray we left Montague and made our way to Georgetown. The bicycle route, the Confederation Trail, is an old railway line – straight and easy to follow and we were lucky to discover that the mosquitoes couldn’t keep up with us, as long as we didn’t stop of course. Along the way we stopped off at a small place called Cardigan and as there was not much going on we continued to Georgetown. The little fishing village is located next to the sea with one of the key features being the harbour. We cycled down to see the fishermen baiting up bags for their lobster pots as well as two guys sorting black mussels through a rotating machine. Everyone there was really friendly and kept asking us where we were from on hearing our accents.

As we cycled the route in record time we were early for lunch at the Clam Diggers restaurant. Luckily they didn’t mind us coming in early and offered us coffee. When they finally did open we enjoyed an early seafood lunch of deep fried clam strips, mussels in a curry sauce and crab cakes. Their food was delicious and prepared us for our cycle back which was a killer. We decided to take the main road as we’ve already done the railway, only to discover a strong headwind and a few steep hills. I was huffing and puffing by the end of our trip and glad to sit in my lazy man’s position behind the steering wheel of our rental car with the bicycles in the back. From Montague we drove to the campsite in St. Peters where we intended to stay for the night only to discover that it was still closed for the season, as annoyingly they only open mid-June.  Luckily Gillian sweet talked the owner and she allowed us to stay for the night.     

    

St. Peters Bay: Greenwich Park was a short hike recommended to us and our first activity while in St. Peters. Maybe we’ve been spoilt by touring for a year as the trail didn’t impress us at all. Apart from a few rabbits, grass and small dunes there was not much to see although it was nice stretching our legs. Back in camp I prepared a smoked salmon and potato salad. The shop we bought the potatoes from only sold them in big bags, so most of them were going to be donated to our travel buddies over the weeks to come. The next morning we prepared hot oats as the weather outside was cold and windy. Not a good day for cycling although we felt we had to go out as we’d paid for them already. 

My mood was pretty much on par with the weather, cycling with a sore bum from the day before in the rain and wind. To add to my unpleasant experience I discovered that I had a flat tire about 4kms from the nearest town. It wasn’t supposed to be a problem as we were given a puncture kit although, we soon discovered, without a pump. I had to walk the 4kms back to town while pushing the damn bike while Gillian in the mean time unsuccessfully tried to borrow a pump by knocking on random people’s doors. I finally arrived in town to inflate the tire at the only garage hoping that it was a slow puncture and that we could at least cycle back to our camping site. The tire lasted another 2.5kms before becoming as flat as a pancake again, so it was Gillian’s turn to walk my bike back to the same garage while I cycled on to get the car – I was NOT impressed…

With all the activity and cold weather that morning we were very hungry by the time we loaded the bicycles into the car. We stopped off at a small restaurant called Ric’s Fish n Chips which brightened our day tremendously. Their seafood was both fresh and tasty and made for another good meal. We had battered fish, small rolls with fresh butter and a clam chowder each. Even if we weren’t going to remember PEI by its nature and activities at least their food was going to be a highlight! What was also amusing was seeing all the McDonalds along the way advertising McLobster meals! We drove back to Montague to drop the bicycles off and from there made our way to Charlottetown.    

Charlottetown: We booked into a cute backpackers in Charlottetown and then went to explore the town. I really liked the place as it was clean and had a nice atmosphere. As the weather was still pretty bad we went to a pub where I tried their beer sampler consisting of 8 different beers in small glasses arranged on a tray. I also liked the way that random people would just start to chat with you as it is not always that common in London. That night the Canucks played ice hockey against the Bruins and the pub was packed. We decided to treat ourselves before the game and booked a table at a recommended restaurant called Lot 30, not knowing that it was going the best meal of the year! Dinner was as perfect as we could have hoped for: friendly service, good wine, good mains and good desserts. We washed down our mains of steak and pork belly with Shiraz and Cab Sav while our desserts of melting chocolate puddings were eaten with dessert wine and port. The food was to die for and we left our waiter with a generous tip when we discovered he didn’t charge us for the puddings or the dessert wines! Lot 30 was definitely one of our food highlights.

As it was getting near to the start time of the game we went back to the pub. At that point I was getting somewhat intoxicated and started on the whiskeys. The Canucks won that night which made for even more partying although I regretted that the next morning waking up with a headache and queasy stomach. Things happened a lot slower that day and our drive to Five Islands took a lot longer than intended. I will always remember PEI for its food and friendly people although the weather, bugs and late season spoilt the outdoors for us, with most of the fishing and lobster tours closed. It would have been better if we’d spent our time there in either July or August, the main months for tourism. Something else I will remember PEI by is the ludicrous amounts of sit-on-top lawnmowers we saw in just a few days. We counted 30 action moments of people mowing their lawns and that didn’t include the many hand pushed, tractor or idle ones.

Five Islands: We decided to drive into New Brunswick over the 13 km long bridge instead of taking the ferry again.  Along the way we saw many “Beware of the moose” signs as well as many more people mowing their lawns. From New Brunswick we cut back into Nova Scotia and made our way down to Truro to enquire about the inflatable boat tours running in the river. Roy told us about the trip where the high tides from the ocean meet the down flow of the river creating massive waves. A few tour companies offer adrenaline pumping excursions colliding head-on with big waves in fast inflatable boats. Due to the tides the tours were leaving either late evening or very early morning and as we both felt under the weather from the night before we decided to give it a miss - I couldn’t face getting into freezing water and bumping up and down.

 Instead we drove to Five Islands where we set up tent at a camping site called Sea View Camping. Although expensive it was a nice site next to the beach overlooking the 5 islands. When we arrived it was low tide exposing the whole mud bank in front of us. Apparently it is a good spot for digging soft shell clams as well as catching striped bass. I was too hungover from the night before so I couldn't be bothered to do that either. Rather, I cooked up a chilli con carne with lots of fresh veggies which helped cure my hangover.  The next morning it was time for laundry as our dirty clothes had been piling up during the last few days. It was also handy being able to pick up WiFi from our camping spot. 

Typing was difficult though as we had to use our hands to swat mosquitoes or black flies most of the time. Gillian especially got bitten quite badly and I ended up being an involuntary recipient of verbal irritation. Most of the day we lazed about although we did find some enthusiasm to hike up Partridge Island, hunting for fossils and rocks with the local “rock hounds”. It was interesting seeing all the various rocks although we didn't know exactly what we were looking for. We stopped off at the museum where we saw many fossils and other rocks collected by people who actually knew what they were doing.

We woke the next morning to a persistent downpour – as if we didn’t have enough of that during our stay in Cape Breton and PEI. Breaking camp was done in record time and we had to stuff our wet tent into a black bin liner to keep the car dry. The only dry spot we could find to be was inside the laundry room where we boiled water for our porridge and coffee. I was getting seriously pissed off with the weather although complaining didn’t help - at least our breakfast was hot and our car dry. From Five Islands we drove to Hopewell Rocks in New Brunswick. The rocks were shaped by the ocean waves and strong winds which created arches and interesting formations. They are best visited during low tide although we didn’t hang around for too long as the rain was still pouring down and with strong winds we only stayed for a quick few photos. We decided to push on hoping for better weather further south.  

Saint John: We never went into the town of Saint John but rather found a motel on the outskirts. The motel definitely competes for the title of worst motel during our stay in Canada although they at least had internet and take away menus for ordering pizza. That was the last night we spent in Eastern Canada and left us with slightly mixed emotions because of the bugs and bad weather we experienced most of the time. On a positive note I found the landscape beautiful with lots of trees, lakes, rivers and rugged coastline – Cape Breton was particularly stunning. The people we met were very friendly while the seafood we sampled was very tasty, especially our memorable meal while in Charlottetown. I also really enjoyed staying with Roy and getting to sample freshly cooked lobster, rotisserie chicken and home brewed wine and beer. If I’d had more time on the east coast I would have loved to take a sea kayaking tour for a week or two as the rugged coastline really impressed me. The only place left to visit in Canada on our trip together was Toronto…