Ecuador September 2010

Ecuador – September 2010:

Quito: Nestled between the towering cloud covered mountains, this is Ecuador’s 2nd largest city with a population of about 1.5 million and situated at a height of 2850m. Quito was our home for just more than a week and we stayed in different hostels and hotels between setting off on our various trips. Most of our time in Quito we stayed in a backpackers called The Secret Garden which was very good indeed. It had a brilliant view from the roof terrace where we could watch over the old town and the mountains while the La Virgen de Quito statue watched over us from the hill. The Secret Garden was slightly more costly than most of the other backpackers but well worth it especially since they grind their own coffee which was free!

Ecuador is a poor country and with an average income of only $117 a month, most of the people are very poor which contributes to petty crime such as pick pocketing and muggings. Most of the time I felt a little on edge while walking around in town but fortunately nothing happened and we were free to experience the culture and sample the local foods. Guinea pig is one of Ecuador’s local delicacies and I sampled one of these critters one evening at a restaurant. It did taste a little like chicken but is was very small and fiddly to eat so I’m not sure if I would have it again. A drink we tried while in Quito was called Canelazo which is a hot drink spiced with cinnamon and laced with a shot of alcohol. They make it with various fruit and we were lucky enough to try an unusual fruit called Naranjilla which had a slight citrussy flavour.

The Basilica is a prominent building in Quito and one day we climbed up the towers for a nice view over the city. There is also a nice coffee shop where we tried some flavored coffee (amaretto and cognac). Towering over even the Basilica is a high mountain called the Rucu Pichincha. We took the teleferiQo up to Cruz Loma (4100m) and then climbed to the tip of Rucu Pichincha which was at a height of 4680m! The climb up was very challenging as the oxygen there is very thin and breathing hard. We were lucky that day as the clouds lifted as we hiked up but many days the tip of the mountain is covered in clouds.

We started our trip the 18 September 2010 from Quito. Our tour company is called Tucan Travel and they supplied us with a “van and man” (Trevor the Truck and Scoota) to drive us down South America for the next 63 days. Trevor is a big yellow monstrosity of a truck – it can seat 34 people and has loads of packing space underneath its belly for luggage, kitchenware, tables, gas cookers, water, etc. With Trevor we are pretty much a mobile restaurant! Scoota, our Aussie driver, is a very entertaining fellow with an endless supply of one-liners and puns and we all knew that our trip was going to be interesting…

Our group was meant to consist of 12 members but somehow one of the members mysteriously vanished! According to our hotel he checked in but never showed up for our meeting or when we set off the next day! A few emails have being sent and a few phone calls being made but still no news…That left us with 11 members: Miguel (our tour leader), Scoota (driver), Le Roux (me), Gillian (girlfriend), Adrian & Sally, Matt & Hannah, Claire & Lindsay, Vanessa and Paul. It was with 11 members that we took off the next morning for Otavalo.

One thing that I noted was just how short the people are in Ecuador – I feel like a giant between them standing at 6ft1! Something that I noted and found very odd is shops selling fridges and motorbikes at the same time - it wasn’t just one shop but all of them!

Otavalo: While driving along to Otavalo we were awed by the collosal mountains which seemed endless. Most of the mountains were evergreen with waterfalls and the road snaking through them. Along the way we saw some random things like a whole pig hanging from a shop window with most of its skin sliced off. The Ecuadorians use a lot of fried pig skin in their dishes and we saw quite a few pigs hanging from shop windows. We also saw a lot of very scruffy animals roaming around freely which ranged from dogs, pigs, donkeys, horses, cats, llamas and many more.

This town is known for its market which pre-dates the Incas and is apparently one of the biggest in South America. It is especially busy during Saturdays and many of the locals still wear traditional dress. We arrived there on a Sunday so unfortunately didn´t see the market in its full glory although it was still spectacular none the less. One of the things that struck me were all the vivid colours and the randomness of some of the items that they sell. You could buy pretty much anything from dried cows udders to colourful alpaca blankets, hammocks, bags, panpipes and many more. Be sure to always barter with the crafty stall owners as they always have "gringo prices" at hand for the light-skinned travellers...

Being an electrical inspector, I´ve been appalled by the general electrical installations in Ecuador! I´m usually trying hard to turn a blind eye when I walk past a spiders nest which is an electrical accident waiting to happen but to no avail! It is pretty bad and I´m convinced that a lot of people must get electricuted each year! On a brighter note, the Ecuadorian kids are really cute. Most of them love to pose for photos and then quickly run over to see themselves in our cameras. Most people in Ecuador have dark features and a lot still wear traditional dress - the women in dresses, blouses decorated with flowers, shawls and hats. Another common site is women walking along witha baby hanging on their backs in colourful shawls.

We drove up to the Volcan Cotacachi in the Lagunas de Mojanda National Park after checking into our hotel in Otavalo and had lunch there next to a crystal clear blue lake. It was fairly windy and cold up there so we didn't stay for too long that day. On our way though we had some engine problems with Trevor the truck and we had to stop amidst a cloud of smoke. The previous mechanic worked on the injectors causing the pipes to hang too close to the exhaust manifault causing the pipe to melt and spill diesel all over the hot exhaust. This caused all the smoke but luckily Scoota had a spare join and soon we were on our way again! It wasn't all sunshine and roses for Scoota though as he managed to rip out 2 telephone lines in a residential street while driving through Otavalo with Trevor!

The jungle: From Otavalo we travelled down to Mishauailli via a quick stop at the equator where we had breakfast. It was amazing how the temperature changed from Otavalo which is situateted in the highlands to the lower lying Napo River. We travelled down the Napo river to Anaconda Lodge in a dug out canoe fitted with a outboard engine. The Napo River is a tributary of the Amazon River. The first thing that struck me other than the heat was the sounds coming from the jungle. This jungle symphony especially became alive during the night. It has a constant background hum of crickets which got broken by various sounds coming from frogs, birds, bamboo rats and many more which I can only try and guess at. The bamboo rats apparently look like guinea pigs with a long tail and they sounded especially funny - almost like a Lister Engine with a heavy fly-wheel running out of momentum after you winded it up!( puppupupupupup-pup--pup---pup----pup---------pup--------------------pup)

The next morning we travelled up river for a hike and we had to stop and help push the boat along due to low water levels. Along the way we could see the local women and kids washing clothes and swimming in the river. The kids were yet again very cute and we saw some of them floating down river in inflated tyres and paddling with their sandals! Our guide for the next few days was a local guy called Fausto and it seemed that all of the girls from our group fell in love with him. He had a vast knowledge of the jungle and showed us a lot of the special plants and animals. Some of the plants included walking trees, rubber trees, lemon-ant trees (we tasted these and it tasted slightly like lemon sherbet), garlic, cinnamon, paradise flowers and a bark which they use for making poison for their blowpipe darts.

Another spectacular plant is the strangler vine which hangs from high trees and which is strong enough for even four people to swing from! A few of us swung accross the jungle with one of these although one of our group almost had a nasty accident when his hands slipped and he fell a fair way to land between two tree trunks, one of which was really sharp and could have caused serious damage!  Fausto also showed us a colourful poisonous frog which can kill a human being in about 20 minutes! Along the way we also saw many colourful butterflies which elluded our cameras.  The last stretch of our walk wading through a riverine and I found the girls very amusing wearing bikinis and wellies! We had lunch on the river bank where we got mauled by tiny sandflies - I couldn't even see them as they were so small but I sure felt the itch after! I felt sorry for some of the girls as some of them were almost eaten alive and decorated with numerous itchy, red, swollen bites.

After our jungle trek we visited a jungle museum where we were showed all the various traps which the locals used to trap animals for food. There was a long swing suspended across the river as well which was great fun! My favourite part of our jungle trip however was visiting the animal rescue centre after the museum. The rescue centre is run by volunteers and is an asylum for injured and captured animals which were lucky enough to be rescued from the black market. The centre was alive with playful shrieking monkeys jumping around in the trees and many other very unusual and odd looking animals. We saw squirrel monkeys, spider monkeys, capuchin monkeys, woolly monkeys, scarlet, blue and yellow maccaws, red/blue and black headed parrots, brazileros, cabybaras, kaymans, tortioses, turtles, pekari pigs, agoutis, amazon parrots, kinkajous, jaguarundis, ocelots and my favourite - a grey winged trumpeter. The trumpeter followed us around and sounded like someone doing beat boxing when it puffed itself up! Some of the parrots were also very funny as they were perfect mimickers laughing at us laughing at them and causing a snow-ball effect which lasted for a long time!

We were also told how some people still use dynamite when fishing or crushing a local root which kills the fish when put upstream. The fish are then collected in woven baskets placed downstream - the root is so strong that it can kill all the fish for up to 4km! An interesting insect we were told about is the rubber tree fly which is massive and also deadly. Many of the locals got killed while sapping the rubber trees although one day a dying man wanted to have sex after he got stung and waiting to die - he survived! Apparently this is the only way to survive when you get stung by one of these flies!

The next day we were taken to meet some local families and showed how they create some of their crafts. Fausto also showed us how to weave palm leaves and make hats. Yuca is a root plant that the locals use for eating and more importantly creating a potent local drink called yuca chicha. This drink plays a huge part in the size of some of the families! Fausto had us try some fresh cocoa seeds which tasted very sweet and refreshing. Next on our list was raft building although Fausto did most of the work. The balsa raft was great fun and we drifted for about two hours down the river while sipping cold beer and occasionally going for a swim. Adrian showed us how to use a life vest (PFD) as a "nappy" which works perfectly for drifting down the river!  After lunch and a siesta back at our ranch we went to see how the yuca chicha is prepared. We also had a go with a blow pipe trying to hit a wooden monkey suspended from a tree.

Our next stop was a visit to a local shaman who "cleansed" one of our team with chanting and blowing fire water over her. We got to try the fire water which is made from sugar cane and is very strong! From there we went to the local village where we visited a carver and local woman making pots. Most of the crafts they make are painted in bright colours and make for very good, cheap souveniers. In the town we got swamped with many of the local kids who posed for pictures and demanded to see the results after. For the last few days I've had man-flu and have not been feeling too well. Fausto had a local remedy and I braved lying back while he dripped crushed ginger up my nostrils...This definitely helped but burned like hell (for a long time)going down my nasal cavities! Fausto also gave one of the girls, Claire, "dragon blood" for her insect bites which worked wonders (without any pain!) The dragon blood is a secret local remedy made from one of the plants - we can only guess.

Banos: While driving to Banos we drove through a small town called Tena. We made a pit stop here for groceries and drawing money. There were a few fishmongers along the way and I saw some of them selling piranhas which were kept alive in fish tanks! We stayed in a campsite called Pequena Paraiso Camping near Banos where we pitched our tents for the first time. The campsite is situated on a shoulder of a very deep gorge with a river far below. There were many noisy and colourful birds which shared the campsite with us. Everytime we went to town we took the local bus which costed 40 cents per journey which sure beats the 8 dollars for a taxi ride!

Banos is a mecca for adventure sports which include horse riding, abseiling, quad biking, bridge swinging, white water rafting, etc. The streets were lined with vendors selling roasted guinea pigs, chickens, fruit, unrefridgerated meat and I was amused by some of the vendors who enter the bus selling magazines, fruit and even mixed meat kebabs to the passengers! Most of our group went quad biking one day which was great fun - even Gillian had a good time after flipping her quad complete with guide on the back after only two minutes on the road! I got a 250cc scrambler and had lots of fun with it zipping around between the quads. We were all tired, dirty and dusty by the end of our trip which took us up to an active volcano called Tungurahua Volcano. We also hiked to the thundering Pailon del Diablo waterfall which fell from high above, ending in a fine spray of water at the bottom. From Banos we travelled further down towards our next stop which was Cuenca.

Cuenca: This is the 3rd largest city in Ecuador and one with probably the best architecture. There were many old churches and a large cathedral which decorated the sky with its blue towers. The plazas in most of the towns are well kept and especially so in Cuenca with a lot of locals sitting around on the benches chatting. There were a lot of vendors again selling anything from fruit, meat and ice cream which doesn't melt...I'm not sure what it consists out of but I'm convinced that it has "two weeks on the toilet" written all over it! Shoe polishers are also very common and I saw some men sitting in the streets with grinding stones sharpening knives. We also visited the Panama hat factory while in Cuenca which was definitely worth the visit. They showed us how they colour and weave the hats and we were amazed that some of the hats can take up to 8 months to complete! No wonder they can cost up to $1200!

So we came to the end of our time in Ecuador. I found Ecuador to be very mountainous and the climate fluxuating from cold and windy in the highlands to hot and sticky in the jungle. We had a nice time in Ecuador with the highlight definitely being the Galapagos Islands followed by our stay in the jungle. The only let down being that we had to constantly look over our shoulders when withdrawing cash from an ATM and not being able to walk at night in the larger cities. Most trouble can be avoided though by playing it safe and following the rules. Ecuador is cheap for travelling and well worth a visit.

Our group:

Trevor Benz (Germany): Weighing in at 12 tons and with 310HP, Trevor is a lot of engine! A yellow monstrosity of a truck which can seat 34 people and towers over all other trucks we encounter as we travel through South America. Trevor can be a little temperamental at certain times and will throw a strop by breaking down. Update: Trevor has since died and has mutated to various other trucks. Certain parts of him is now in Dorris so I'm sure he is happy.

Miguel (USA): He is our tour leader – tall and lanky with a floppy hairstyle that he can expertly clear away from his eyes with a quick flick. I suspect that he was weaned on chili sauce (salsa picante) when he was a child as he eats pretty much all of his food with lots of it. He also has a metabolism like an ostrich as he can eat the equivalent in a day for what is needed to feed a small army! Update: Miguel has left us in Lima and has taken up a new career - if anyone has got any updates on him please inform the curious masses a.s.a.p.

Scoota (Australia): He is our bus driver who can manage record speeds with our truck not previously recorded. Definitely not a morning person and looking very disheveled especially after just waking up. His waking up time is mostly delayed until at least 10pm after his 6th beer has kicked in and we are exposed to his full charm and naughty grin. When it comes to fixing things, I can only describe Scoota as a gynecologist mechanic as he’s so good he can pretty much overhaul an engine through its exhaust pipe! Update: Scoota is very fond of obtaining fines in Argentina - at least he didn't make the same mistake within a few hours!

Le Roux (South Africa): That would be me! The cheeky author of this blog…

Gillian (England): She is my girlfriend. Known to get a glazed look in her eyes and a trembling top lip when events for the next decade are not neatly laid out in an Excel Spreadsheet. Her orangutan arm waving walk (it is for balancing she said) is very amusing to watch from behind when we go on hikes. Update: She turns grumpy when she doesn't get the cards she deserves while playing President. 

Adrian (Australia): A very curious individual who can’t leave any faulty mechanical or electronic device alone. Unfortunately his success rate at fixing things, as a percentage, is about the same as the average yearly temperature in England…Update: His success rate at fixing things fell to the average Icelandic temperature after his attempt to fix his broken camera.

Sally (Australia): She is a lovely, petite girl who sometimes switches herself off from human existence by holding her hands in front of her (mother Theresa style) and staring into nothingness with a sweet solemn smile. I can only guess that she must be in a happy place somewhere or having an out of body experience during those numerous occasions. She is also very prone to accidents which usually occur around her bum and thighs. These include bug bites and swinging accidents…Update: She has since moved on to her solemn holding-a-teacup stare. We're not sure if it is the coco tea or another out of body experience.

Matt (England): He is probably the only person I’ve ever seen who is able to sleep on a shaking bus while lying half comatose at a 45 degree angle! I never knew that it was possible for someone’s eyes to grow so big after I saw him on a quad bike with Hannah on the back clinging on for dear life with clenched white knuckles and gritted teeth. A great guy with a good sense of humor! PS: Never sit next to him though at the dinner table as you’ll probably end up with a few less teeth and bruised ribs due to him eating with his elbows.  Update: Matt is now also exposed as a sleep walker, sleep talker and excessive early morning faffer. He is also known to amuse himself with a football for hours on end. A very talented writer who is good with words and fun to have around. We will miss having him and Hannah around.

Hannah (England): It is a treat to see her while hiking – with arms turned inwards, lowered head and a stern, determined look on her face ,she races ahead at a slow pace of about 1mph! She is a very avid beer pong player who used very successfully, to her advantage, her distracting hip swaying dance. No normal person would be able to sink a beer pong ball while having to witness her dancing! Update: I've never seen anyone that can so easily fall asleep on a truck! Her hair is usually in various positions of disarray throughout the journey...

Paul (Australia): A very quiet individual who comes to life on the dance floor especially after a few beverages. His invisible wall dance is superb and very entertaining for those lucky enough to have seen it…He successfully managed to observe that swinging from strangler vines in the jungle is definitely not a career which he will pursuit. Update: Paul is still very quiet. He absolutely loves it when the truck goes around corners and shakes around. Don't be fooled by the green sheen in his face...

Lindsay (England): With a constant twinkle in the eyes, she turns into a party animal after a few cocktails! She is also an “alcohol Medusa” who can successfully seduce any person into drinking more alcohol than they intended. She is most comfortable in her PJ bottoms and we are half expecting to see her coming for dinner at a fancy restaurant while wearing them. Update: She would gladly kill any noisy animal the morning after a heavy night out. Her dinosaur noise is very entertaining. She is also a very good sidekick to have around when it comes to singing. She is the first person that I've ever met who gets a spaghetti Carbonara hangover! 

Claire (England): A carefree girl with a constant smile which stretches from ear to ear! She fell hopelessly in love with our jungle guide, Fausto and I’m sure that she has a photo of him in her purse or under her pillow each night…She is also known to emit very goofy sounding laughs while watching comedy on a laptop while we are driving. Update: She is now also known as having a perma-smile and we've discovered that she has got the grace of a baby giraffe while sand boarding!

Vanessa (Australia): She seems like a very nice person but I can’t tell for sure. At first we lost her for days after she started reading “The girl with the dragon tattoo” series and just when we thought she started paying us attention, there were some key AFL matches…Other than that she is usually lost somewhere in a virtual world of movies, skype or youtube. Hopefully we can get to know her sometime during our trip! Update: We've finally managed to get to know her and found that she is actually a very sweet person. She is also the queen of victory card game dances - it is very entertaining to watch!

Complete photo album: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=298359&id=749927742&l=2b6afb7bad
Quito Photos: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=293012&id=749927742&l=686ba6f655

Galapagos Islands 2010

Galapagos Islands – September 2010:

Our trip: The company we used for our 10 day Galapagos Trip was called Intrepid. To get to the Galapagos Islands we had to fly from Quito via Guayquil. San Cristobel Island was our first stop and we stayed there for two nights. We almost missed our flight though because one of our group, Tim the Aussie, went out with our guide, Doris, for tequila and salsa the night before. She never made it to our hotel but turned up just in time at the airport with our plane tickets looking a bit disheveled! From that point onwards Tim was banned by our group from going out with the guides.

From San Cristobel Island we travelled via boat to Floreana Island where we stopped for some snorkeling and from there onwards to Isabela Island where we spend 3 nights. Santa Cruz was the next island, where we stayed for one night, before we finally headed back to San Cristobel via Santa Fe. Our activities included mountain biking, snorkeling with playful sea lions, hiking up the Sierra Negra volcano, walking through the lava tubes and visiting tortoise breeding centers. A few more activities included visiting the Darwin Research Centre, seeing the Wall of Tears and a quick visit to the Interpretation Centre. I’m however not going to dwell on these for long as the animals were really spectacular and definitely stole the spotlight…

The animals:

Sea lions: The sea lions were really cool and we found them sleeping in the most random and unusual kind of places like shop doorways, sidewalks, stairways, on top of boats and pretty much anywhere else where you’d never expect to see them. They are a smelly and noisy crowd who seem to own the town – fearless of humans and they don’t even lift an eyebrow when you walk past them! The best part was swimming with them when we went snorkeling on our second day. The cubs were adorable and extremely playful and also very quick underwater. They would swim right up to you almost touching your mask and blow a bubble in your face before quickly darting away. I chased after one underwater but there was no way I was ever going to keep up as they are just too agile! Swimming with them was one of the best parts of the trip for me. We were however warned to stay clear of the large males as they are very territorial and can be aggressive. I had one barking at me while snorkeling and I had to quickly turn around to avoid a confrontation.

Tortoises: These giants were colossal and seemed out of proportion to any other tortoise I’ve ever seen - they were massive! Some live to over 150 years old and weigh up to 250kg plus! It was great seeing them graze like cattle in the grass fields or giving long yawns before closing their eyes for a snooze. The giant tortoises were almost extinct at one point due to people killing them over the years and it is good to know that their numbers these days are healthy again due to successful breeding programs on several of the islands.

Iguanas: They were the “lazy lizards” who laid around on the black lava rock to soak up the sun. Because they are cold blooded they have to regulate their body temperatures by either lying in the sun or huddling together. This they did extremely well and we saw many large groups of iguanas piled on top of each other in a mixed array of legs, tails and bodies! A constant activity to show their affection for each other involved snorting sea salt over all their buddies while lying there soaking up the sun. When they eat the algae from the rocks in the sea, they also drink some of the salt water. They’ve got a special gland in their head which helps to get rid of the salt by expelling it through their noses in rapid squirts. A lot of the iguanas have white heads due to all the salt that has formed a crust! The other interesting thing about them is that some of them evolved to be a different colour depending on which island they were on. We always had to be careful not to step on them as we walked along as they were scattered all over!

Blue-footed boobies: These birds looked very eccentric with their blue or red slippers spaced widely apart. It was very unusual to see a bird with blue feet and we took quite a few pictures of them on our trip. They are brilliant divers and for that purpose have thick necks and long straight beaks. We saw a few fly past and then all of a sudden dive bomb down into the water with a big splash to get to the fish. I did feel sorry for them though as it seemed that every other bird bullied them. We were told that the frigate birds will chase them while in flight and pull their tail feathers so that they would drop their fish which they would then quickly snatch up before it hits the water. A species of mocking bird on the other hand would pull out one of their tail feathers and drink the blood for survival, so all in all the poor boobies have a pretty raw deal.

Frigate birds: These were the large bullies that would torment the poor boobies for their catch. They are massive birds with a large wingspan and are very good flyers due to their forked tail which they can swivel around like a rudder. The females are white and black where as the males are black with a red pouch which they inflate, especially in mating season, to try and impress the females. Sometimes the males would try and outdo each other and one of them would burst his pouch! This takes about a year to heal again and is a lesson learnt once. These birds were mostly flying and we saw them looking like prehistoric silhouettes up in the sky. We managed to see these birds up closer at the fish market in Santa Cruz where they were competing with the pelicans for scraps of fish.

Pelicans: One of the first pelicans we saw sat nearby on a rock while we were snorkeling. With an evil eye it stared us down as if saying “what you looking at punk?” They were also very big with long large beaks. We found it amusing watching them gulping down pretty much any part of a fish and you could make out the shape as it slid down its long neck. There were many of them at the fish market where they competed amongst each other, the frigate birds and lava gulls for scraps of fish. It was very funny watching the fisherman cut up fish while he got harassed by a mob of pelicans who eagerly and watchfully awaited scraps of fish, although many did steal pieces of fish when given the opportunity.

Marine Turtles: The marine turtles that we saw while snorkeling were also really big. We saw our first turtle while swimming with the sea lions. The turtle got mobbed by an entourage of snorkelers as well as pestered by a small sea lion who kept on playfully nipping its tail! In general they seemed very unphased by us as they slowly swam along looking at us with sleepy eyes. They would swim to the ocean floor where they would take a quick mouthful of seaweed before cruising along again. I could only compare them with chilled out people who smoke a lot of weed!

The fish: There was a huge variety of colourful fish in all shapes and sizes. The smaller reef fish were especially colourful and some even looked like they were trying to impress their audience with donning yellow lipstick. At one point I dove down, held on to a rock and then got surrounded by a whole school of grey, black and yellow fish which swam past right in front of my mask! We also got to swim with sharks - Galapagos sharks, white-tipped reef sharks and stingrays. The seafood there was also very good and we saw some monster crayfish being sold at the fish market for next to nothing. Right accross from the fish market there is a small seafood restaurant which we tried out and they made some of the best sailfish steaks that I´ve even eaten!  

The crabs: The crabs (Sally lightfoot)decorated the rocks with bright orange, reds and blacks (this all depended on their age). They were extremely agile and could jump from rock to rock – apparently, when in danger, they can even run on the water for up to 4 seconds to reach the safety of another rock! I dubbed these the “orange acrobats” and I spent lots of time photographing them as they usually scurried away – they didn’t seems to like posing for photos. 

Kicker Rock is also worth mentioning as it is a large rock in the ocean with a crevasse straight through it. We snorkeled along this crevasse and were able to see Galapagos Sharks and large shoals of reef fish. I dove down to the bottom and estimate the depth to be around 10 meters. The rock itself is fairly large and is formed from volcanic ash.

In summary: Our whole group had a great time and our guide, Ossie, was a really nice guy who was fun to be with. Not even some of our green faced crew complained when we had to get rescued after many hours at sea when our boat had engine problems!

The Galapagos Islands enchanted us all with its diverse and spectacular animals. We were all amazed by the fearlessness and size of these animals and I can definitely recommend a visit to these islands to anyone who loves animals and photography. A lot the money created by tourism goes forward in supporting the breeding centers and local families so even though it is very expensive it is all for a good cause.

Note: I found Galapagos’ strong Catholic religion quite ironic and amusing especially since it is the birth place of Darwin’s theory of evolution!

                               Complete photo album:

        http://www.facebook.com/album.phpaid=281205&id=749927742&l=d6600cf642

Nahanni Canoeing Trip August 2010

Nahanni Canoeing Trip July/August 2010:

The Nahanni River is situated in Canada’s Northwest Territories and is a river of raw, unspoilt, jaw dropping and breathtaking beauty. The Nahanni National Park became part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site back in 1978. The name Nahanni comes from the indigenous Dene language and can be translated to “spirit”, although according to R. M. Patterson’s book “The Dangerous River”, Nahanni means “The people who speaks like ducks”. The river itself twists through a deep gorge which is up to 1200m deep and drops down into the spectacular Virginia Falls which is twice the height of Niagara Falls! This river is one of romance and mystery and is supported by names such as Deadmen’s Valley, Hell’s Gate, Headless Creek, Funeral Range, Burial Range, Painted Canyon and many more...

This untamed wilderness is also home to a very diverse host of animals which include black and grizzly bears, wolves, otters, beavers, moose, caribou and white Dall sheep who will keep a watchful eye from the high canyon cliffs. Above the canyons and the Dall sheep, bald and golden eagles soar the skies and in the evening the lonely cries of the wolves is a contend reminder that this place is not meant for man. My Nahanni trip started as an idea planted whilst chatting to the on-line forum members of “myccr.com”. website. The local residence residing on that forum were extremely friendly and helpful and confirmed the warm nature of Canadian people!

Day 1 – Friday: The mosquitoes have been having a blast feasting on my blood the last few days and I've been itching all the time. It didn’t take me long to get a very large can of Muskol to ward off the little buggers. After breakfast I packed up all my gear which consisted of 1 plastic food barrel with harness and a small rucksack for all my personal belongings. The rest of the group arrived later that morning and soon after that we took float planes out to Rabbit Kettle Lake where we were camping for the night. Because of the large group and the amount of gear that had to be transported, it took three trips. I boarded the first plane which was a Twin Otter and along with the pilot, co-pilot and 6 passengers we also loaded 3 canoes, a few food barrels and some smaller items. 

We had to don ear plugs for the flight due to the noisy engines and after take-off we could clearly see where the Liard and McKenzie River met as they are two very different colors – one muddy and the other clear. We flew over evergreen forests with snaking rivers glittering in the sun, which then gave way to rugged mountain ranges stretching as far as the eye could see! Rabbit Kettle Lake was beautiful and was nestled between the mountains in a forest of white and black spruce, jack pine and birch. The float plane dropped us off there and while we waited I took one of the canoes for a paddle to try and figure out the J-Stroke which I’ve never done before. Not too long after that the others arrived and after setting up camp, dinner was prepared by our guides – Bella, Ingrid and Curtis. They make us large Portobello mushrooms grilled on the fire with pesto and cheese. That was followed by salmon, rice, corn on the cob and a salad. Dessert was strawberries and cream which made for a very delicious first meal! After that we all retired to our tents as the weather was fairly cold and it had also started to drizzle.

Day 2 – Saturday: During the night it rained and it continued to do so most of that day. It was also fairly cold and we all had to put on extra layers of clothing. Breakfast that morning was eggs and bacon with crumpets which were toasted on the fire along with fruit and cookies. After breakfast we met up with a Dene Elder who chanted some songs next to a campfire. He gave us some tobacco to throw into the fire as according to their beliefs, it is the only way of connecting with the spiritual world.

Straight after that we started our hike which took us through the forest where we saw lots of mushrooms, berries, trees, lakes and mountains. Everything looked very green as we walked along in the rain towards the tufo mounds which were our destination. At one point we had to use a boat connected to a wire to pull ourselves across a very fast flowing river to reach the safety of the other side. It was great to see the tufo mound with the water bubbling up in the middle of it. From the top of the mound we had a lovely view over the 3 valleys: Rabbitkettle Mountains, Ragged Range and the Hole in the Wall.

Back at camp we had a quick snack and then got straight into the hard bit which was our first portage of about 700m long. I made three trips and portaged a canoe as well as some heavy food barrels. At the other side we got paired up with our new paddling partners. Mine was a very nice, bubbly woman called Eve and it was great fun paddling with her! After loading up all our gear we were finally able to get on the water and so our adventure down the Nahanni River began. The flow rate of the water is around 7km/h and together with us paddling we could manage around 10km/h so it didn’t take us long to paddle the 12km to our campsite. We could see many large trees in the water that lay together in large wood piles and the mountains in the background looked hazy in the rain. That afternoon we set up camp on a gravel bar and the first thing that went up was a large tarp to keep us dry from the constant rain. I helped with collecting fire wood and Curtis started the fire which helped to warm us up. We had chicken stir-fry that evening with chocolate and fortune cookies for dessert. We all found it very amusing when we had to read our fortune out loud followed by “in bed” which caused much laughter! 

Day 3 – Sunday: We all got an emergency wake-up call around 2:00 when the water level rose so much as to convert our gravel bar into an island! Some of us had to move our tents as the water level was very close to some of the tents and still rising. Mine was about 4 meters away from the water and it seemed ok to last me till the morning so I got back into bed -I was wrong. At around 4:30 we were all woken again when we suddenly found that some of our tents were already standing in the water! I also had to move my tent and some of the others had to move for the second time! 

By morning the rain had at last stopped and we had a breakfast of French toast with maple syrup and muesli with canned fruit and yogurt. That day I was in the stern for the first time and I had to learn how to do the various strokes. We had a strong wind at our backs all day long and covered a total of 46km! Steering proved difficult at times when the wind caught the back of the canoe and we had to paddle hard to keep it in a straight line. At certain times we would form a flotilla which consisted of all our canoes, held together through a mixture of limbs and paddles, and it was on these that we would kick back and relax while snacking on GORP, chatting, sipping water and for some even catching a quick snooze!

A beaver slapped its tail twice as we paddled down massive towering mountains and evergreen forests on either side. At some sections we would pass clusters of dead trees which looked like dead white bodies laid sprawled out in a twisted array of limbs. The Nahanni River seemed to have a life of its own – pulsing with whirlpools and eddies while the sand scraping the bottom of the boat whispered softly as we glided along the water. The clouds finally cleared that afternoon and the sun was a welcoming sight as we set up camp on another gravel bar next a stream called Flood Creek. The stream was crystal clear and you could easily see where the clear water met the dark brown water of the Nahanni. 

I went fly fishing in the stream and caught my very first grayling on the first fly that I’ve ever tied which was a Black Zulu. Dinner that evening was risotto followed by pears in a chocolate sauce. It was very peaceful there – almost surreal as if we were caught up in a photo album with all the dramatic beauty that the Nahanni had to offer. I noted that fire was always made in a fire box and the working surface for our kitchen was an upturned canoe resting on two food barrels. We also saw many wolf and moose tracks in the river bed. We paddled about 45km that day.

Day 4 – Monday: I heard a beaver slap its tail twice that night and it was very loud! Breakfast that morning started with the usual strong coffee followed by blueberry pancakes doused with maple syrup which were absolutely delicious. After breakfast we practiced some strokes which were draw, pry and cross draw strokes. The sun was already fairly hot when we started paddling and we all had to lather ourselves in sun block. At one stage we almost had a fatality when we paddled past a fork in the river where there was an island of driftwood. One of our canoes got caught up in the drift pile and the force of the water dragged the whole canoe under taking with it one of our crew! Roy was in the stern and managed to get ashore but poor Peter got swept under by the strong current and pinned between the canoe and a tree trunk. He got dragged under again and was lucky to surface again! We had to quickly pick up their gear and canoe and paddle to the safety of the shore. There I fed a very shaken and wide eyed Peter a shot of Sloe gin to calm his nerves. Something like that could so easily happen to any of us so we were all fairly quiet as we paddled onwards.

Paddling that day was hard work as the river made many meanders and due to this the river slowed down. We covered a total distance of about 50km and we were all very tired and my shoulders were really sore. We paddled up a small river which ran into the Nahanni and that opened up into a beautiful lake called Oxpow Lake next to the mountains. Our campsite was situated at the far side of the lake where a stream entered the lake. After setting up camp I tried my camp shower for the first time which worked great. I filled it with water and it warmed in the sun while lying in our canoe. It was great having a warm shower standing there naked in the forest with an audience of two playful baby mink squeaking at me – they were really cute! I also shaved using my signal mirror and battery powered shaver and felt very refreshed after. At 21:00 that evening it was still light and our guides saw a black bear eating berries near our camp which they scared off.

Day 5 – Tuesday: I got up at 7:00 that morning and started the fire to speed up the process of coffee making. Dry spruce twigs and birch bark works a treat to start a fire! That morning breakfast was frittata with a 5-seed Redriver cereal. The lake was dead calm that morning and reflected the mountains and forest. We paddled back across the lake and into the Nahanni which was fairly broad and slow moving at that section. We stopped at an island to collect firewood for our campsite at the Virginia Falls which was only another half hour away. We only had about 20km to paddle that day.

Upon nearing our new campsite the mighty thunder of the falls grew louder and slightly unnerving as we paddled closer to it. The campsites there were in excellent condition with a network of wooden walkways and platforms for pitching our tents. After pitching my tent I went to the stream to pump water and I can only note that pumping water is a serious pain in the ass! We were given a task of carving a paddle for hanging up in an old warden’s cabin so I started whittling one out of a log. The whittling fever quickly spread through the camp and by morning it looked like a family of beavers invaded our camp! That afternoon we met up with the wardens and they took us for a walk to the falls. It was very hot that day and the temperature hovered around 30C. The falls were amazing to see and had a very vivid rainbow in the mist of the falls. The thunder was almost deafening and we almost had to shout at each other to have a conversation. 

The falls consisted of the Sluice Box which is an angry set of rapids with a drop of 30m which then empties out around Mason’s Rock down a massive drop of 90m! You can’t help but feel moved and awed when listening to the falls – pictures and words really don’t do it any justice. In that area we were able to see bear berries, knik-knik, soap berries, crow berries, juniper berries, blueberries, rosehips (itchy bum) and Labrador tea. The forest there consisted of white and black spruce, tamerac/larch, aspen, pine and birch trees. Back at camp I saw a small cute little chipmunk nibbling at something on my food barrel. Dinner that evening was a very tasty lasagne with coleslaw. I brought out my sloe gin and some of the others drank wine and played liars dice.

Day 6 – Wednesday: I got up again at 7:00 for my daily dose of camp coffee. Breakfast consisted of muesli with yogurt and baked muffins. After breakfast we paddled across the river and divided into two groups. One group was only hiking to the Sluice Box where my group was hiking both the Sun-Blood Mountain as well as the Sluice Box. We made it up about a third up the mountain when Curtis our guide stopped us to turn around as it was too hot to continue and most of us only had 1litre of water with us. The view over the valley and the falls from there was great and we managed to get some nice pictures. From there we hiked all the way down and onwards to the Sluice Box where we saw many fossils next to the thundering water. It was situated next to a very aptly named Last Chance Eddy. There were many blueberries around that section and I gorged myself on them while walking along.

Back at camp we were harassed by the Whisky Jacks who were fearless and dive-bombed down from the trees to steel our food! We were always on guard when having our meals although the sneaky buggers still managed to steal some food. They usually came in groups and had a very good distraction technique which they performed with stealth and precision! I even had one eat cheese out of my hand at one point! That afternoon I had another hot shower and also did my laundry. A plane came in and dropped another group off who camped near us. That night Curtis got out a large piece of ham which he carved up to make a delicious stew for dinner. After dinner we portaged some of the gear and I had to team up with Harry and shout “Hey bear!” as we walked along to warn any bears of our presence. Apparently the wardens saw a bear earlier that day so we had to be careful. The portage was 1.2km with another 500m to our campsite so it was hard work.

Day 7 – Thursday: I was up again at 7:00 and made a large fire for coffee brewing enhancement. We had pancakes and muesli and straight after I went to the stream to pump water for the day. The stream flowed underneath one of the wooden platforms which was about 50m from our campsite. To get to it you had to jump off the platform. I was about halfway through pumping water when I suddenly heard shouting and pots and pans banging which was followed by a massive explosion of a bear banger. I was called back to camp just in time to see a big grizzly bear walking across the very same platform where I was sitting underneath pumping my water about 2 minutes earlier! 

We joined the shouting choir and also armed ourselves with noisy pots and pans to help scare the 

bear off. The bear seemed very unphased by all of the commotion and didn´t even flinch when Curtis used another bear banger. The bear saw a canoe and tried to scratch and topple it – it could probably smell food that used to be in it. Curtis ran after the bear chasing it away and together with the wardens they scared it off. After all the excitement we portaged the rest of our gear followed by very frequent “Hey Bears!” as we walked along. At the end of the portage we walked towards the falls where we took some pictures with a rainbow sitting bright in the spray. Before we set off it was time for a quick lunch of bread with a selection of humus, celery, tomatoes, apples, cheese and my favorite: Mennonite Dry Salami. After lunch we fitted the canoes with spray decks for the first time to prepare us for Canyon No.4 which had some large waves. Most of the group put on either dry or wet suits for that section – I only had my waterproofs on. Eve was going to steer so took the stern while I was the beef in the front. We all took off in single file and very soon we were met by some big waves coming at us from all different directions. Eve successfully managed to selectively head into the biggest possible waves in the rapids. The canoe would ride over the crest of a wave and then suddenly lunge down to crash into the next wave and all over me, with the canoe slowly taking on water! 

It was around the first bend that Jan and Emma flipped their canoe and the guides had to work quick to save their canoe together with all their equipment. We all paddled to shore which gave us time to do some much needed bailing. Not too long after taking off again it was almost our turn to go for a swim. There was a ledge in the water which we only saw at the last minute and although Eve tried to steer us past it, the current was just way too strong and we hit it side on with a big crash. I almost lost my paddle and we took on a lot of water but luckily we managed to make it through! After some serious bailing we set off again and finally reached our campsite after 45km, which was nested between the mountains on a river bend. It was really hot again that day and we were all very tired especially after the portage. I had to hang out some clothes to dry at camp and after that, dinner was a welcoming sight. That night it was a stew with cheesecake for dessert. At 21:00 a few of us went for a swim to cool off and have a scrub.

Day 8 – Friday: Breakfast that morning was bacon, cinnamon rolls, oats and oranges – needless to say a strong Nahanni river water coffee. We broke camp and I was in the stern for that day eager to find some waves to crash into to get even with Eve. The river was, however, not nearly as fast as the day before and steering was easy going. Lunch of bread with a selection of peanut butter, jam, cheese, etc. together with dried fruit was served on a gravel bar. There were many interesting rocks lying around and we also killed some time by skipping rocks on the water. After lunch we paddled into Canyon No.3 which opened up into magnificent mountains – I lost count of the amount of times I said “oh wow”! We passed many gravel bars which were strewn with rocks or which consisted out of black sand, many littered with driftwood. The mountains were steep and some had sheer cliffs which sometimes opened up into valleys with random waterfalls – the Nahanni truly is a beautiful place! 

We set up camp that night at a very nice campsite next to Pulpit Rock at Hell’s Gate which was next to a crystal clear stream. We paddled about 45km that day. I pitched my tent right next to some fresh bear scat which I had to get rid of – hopefully it wasn’t going to come back during the night! I found some wild raspberries there which were very sweet and delicious. After settling in it was time for some fishing. I couldn’t have asked for a more picturesque spot standing there next to the stream with Pulpit Rock in the background! I caught two grayling, one of which I kept one for dinner that evening. Curtis cooked it for me with herbs and butter and it tasted very good. After dinner we all chilled out while poems were being read to us.

Day 9 – Saturday: Breakfast that morning was muesli with eggs and bacon. We climbed the mountain next to Pulpit Rock and were rewarded with a beautiful view over the river and the valleys down below. Back at camp we finished loading all our gear and set off with me in the stern again. We paddled through many large canyons with some magnificent mountains and had lunch on a gravel bar. Lunch was freshly baked bread with cheese, salami, apples, flavoured rice, cucumber and carrots.

After lunch we set off again and soon formed another flotilla which was one of my favourite things on the trip - we could all relax for a short while which was always a welcome activity! That day we only paddled 25km so we reached our campsite, Painted Rock Canyon, fairly early. Some of 

us went for a walk. Snacks were served when we got back which were fried tortillas filled with cream cheese, cheddar and salsa sauce. Dinner that evening was lasagne with dark chocolate and chocolate moose. That night it started raining and the big tarp was put up to keep us dry. Earlier that day we collected some Labrador bush and we used that to make a tea before heading off to bed. The stream running next to my tent was fairly loud and made me want to go to the loo all the time. I saw some more bear scat about 5m from my tent.

Day 10 – Sunday: It rained most of the night but it had cleared by the morning. The fog lay like a blanket in the valleys – it was a beautiful sight and we all took many pictures. Breakfast was pancakes with oats boiled with dehydrated cranberries. We paddled through second canyon and the mountains got even bigger as we went along. We stopped for lunch at the start of Deadman’s Valley and climbed a steep cliff for a very rewarding view from the top. Deamans Valley lay splayed out before us in a dense forest of various shades. The wind rustled through the trees which had a very calming effect on all of us. From where we sat we could also see Headless Creek where it entered the Nahanni river right in front of us. Another group passed us while we had lunch which spoilt our serenity a bit.

We paddled a total of 30km that day to reach Prairy Creek where we set up camp. The other group was also camping there just further upstream from us. Prairy Creek opened up into a delta with various streams entering the Nahanni. I went fly fishing again and caught three small fish which I returned. The heat that day was almost unbearable on the hot gravel bar and we had to go for a swim in the Nahanni to cool us off. My calves and ankles at the time were littered with itchy mosquito bites which can be very annoying. We were meant to hike up the canyon later that evening but because we were all tired it never happened.

Day 11 – Monday: That was probably my favorite day of the trip. It started well with breakfast of hash browns, bacon, muesli, cinnamon roll and my usual cup of coffee. We all crossed the river to visit the old warden’s cabin which had been converted into a “paddle cabin” where we all hung our whittling efforts. It was slightly surreal seeing all the paddles hanging from the ceiling and it was interesting reading some of them. Mine also found a special place there before we set off again to paddle two large rapids which required wet and dry suits again.

The day was overcast and nice and cool after the previous hot day. Eve was back in the stern to steer down the first set of large rapids called George’s Ripple. We scouted the waves before the time and two of our guides, Curtis and Bella, went down first to get into position as a rescue boat in an eddy just downstream. The adrenaline was flowing and I think it was safe to say that all of us were nervous especially my paddling partner Eve! Apart from the roller coaster ride and taking in a lot of water which we had to bail out after, all of us made it through without going for a swim.

First Canyon was beautiful and we all felt very small as it dwarfed us paddling along in our tiny canoes. The rock formations ranged from steep sheer cliffs lined with various hues of strata to towering mountains ranges where our stimulated imaginations could pick out various faces and objects in the rock formations. It was sad knowing that we were almost finished paddling through the amazing canyons but at least we had one more set of rapids to look forward to. This one was called Rafferty’s Ripple which had probably the biggest waves yet and we were all very excited to run them! This time I was in the stern and I was determined to pick out the biggest waves to get even with Eve for all the times I got soaked while sitting in the bow!

We all scouted the waves again and took pictures of the first canoes to go down which ploughed up and down like toys through the massive waves in an array of shouts and shrieks. Next up was our canoe and with adrenaline pumping I lined the canoe up with the biggest waves. Very soon our canoe was tossed around as if we weighed nothing in the massive waves which seemed to have a life of its own. Split-second decisions were made to either draw, pry or paddle like hell all while whooping with delight! At one point we picked up momentum going over a crest of a wave only to be met with another very large wave. Our canoe collided with the wave with a big crash and it felt like we were airborne with Eve high above me in the bow getting a good dousing! Our canoe splashed down after what felt like eternity only to be met with more wave trains eagerly awaiting us. We made it through in the end and took on a fair amount of water which we had to bail out after. Running those rapids was magical!

All the canoes made it through Rafferty’s Ripple and as we left the canyons behind we headed straight for the hot springs. We could smell the hot springs before we saw them, but at least you get used to it after a while. It was nice to soak our sore muscles in the warm water (37C) and we felt like royalty lying there while the guides brought us snacks of crackers and cheese. The spring water smelled pretty nasty with all the sulphur so I had to brave the cold Nahanni water for a wash to get rid of the smell. After we had dinner, we paddled downstream to set up camp for the evening. The mosquitos were increasing in number and we had to do some serious slapping and scratching along the way. That day we paddled a total of 42km.

Day 12 – Tuesday: After breakfast we paddled down “The Splits” which was a maze of streams all twisting down in the direction of Nahanni Butte. We passed many gravel bars and lots of dead trees either in the water or washed up. Lunch was again on a gravel bar and from there we headed off for our last stretch of the afternoon. We passed two black bears sitting on the bank gawking at us with a look of utter disbelief on their faces. The more curious of the two even ran after us to try and get a better look! Not too long after that we saw a lone caribou on a gravel bar and a beaver slapped its tail near us. We set up camp about 20km before the Nahanni Butte on a gravel bar. The day was really hot and sticky so most of us went for a swim to cool down. To pass time some of us also participated in a stone skipping contest. That day we had paddled a total of 50km. We all had mixed emotions as it was our last night on the river.

Day 13 – Wednesday: We were in no rush that morning so it was a 2 cup-of-coffee-morning. Breakfast was muesli with fresh oranges and grapefruit. Going to the toilet in the forest was always amusing when I had to do “The Windmill’ – the frantic swaying of your arms to defend your bum from all the cruel mosquitoes who aim for all the soft spots when you are at your most vulnerable! We paddled about 15km through the meandering river that morning to finally reach Nahanni Butte. The Butte is a small Dene community of around 80 people and lots of mosquitoes. We had lunch there on the grassy river bank with the Butte (mountain) in the background.

Five canoes were loaded into a flat boat and 7 of us into a speed boat with a huge outboard motor and we travelled to Lindburgs Landing where we stayed for the night. Very soon after taking off we saw a black bear swimming across the river right in front of us. The boat was a lot bigger than the bear and it swam like crazy with two large nervous eyes checking us out. It then stopped enabling us to take a quick few photos before it disappeared into the forest. About another 1km after spotting the bear we saw a herd of about 40 bison grazing in the distance. I also spotted a large male bison rolling in the dust a little further on. Our journey lasted about one hour and we were lucky enough to see another black bear just before we got to our final destination.

Lindburgs Landing is run by Sue who is a very kind elderly lady who grows her own vegetables and who is also a very good cook. We were all very much looking forward to a meal with fresh veggies and meat! They had hot showers there and I felt like a new man after lots of scrubbing and healthy amounts of soap and shampoo. Sue’s dinner that evening was absolutely delicious and consisted of meat loaf, mashed turnips, potato salad and a fresh green salad doused with her secret luminous green “swamp juice”. For dessert we had rhubarb with strawberry jelly and clementines followed by a strong black coffee.

Day 14 – Thursday: That was our last morning together as a group and it was going to be sad saying good bye to my new friends. We had to get up at 6:30 to be ready for a breakfast of freshly baked muffins along with boiled eggs, fresh oranges and the usual cup of coffee. After breakfast we loaded all our gear together with the canoes onto the trailer and while doing that I managed to kill 102 mosquitoes in about 20 minutes! I’ve heard though that the record there is 47 mosquitoes with one swat! From Lindburgs Landing we had 146km to travel to reach Fort Simpson. That day turned out to be very hazy due to forest fires in BC and the sun was a red orb behind the cloud cover.

Back at base I had to repack all my gear to get ready for my next trip which was a week of fishing in BC for salmon and steelhead. I stored some food in a bag in their garage and was surprised to see a massive hole had been chewed in the bottom and I was minus a lot of food! From there we got dropped off at the airport where we all took a flight to Yellowknife we all said our final goodbyes. Paddling the Nahanni was spectacular to say the least. We all witnessed the constant jaw dropping beauty of the raw unspoiled nature of the Nahanni and it leaves us with a lifetime of fond memories.

-----------------------The end------------------------------

The paddlers:

Jan and Ellen: They were the two sisters who I dubbed “the terrible two” which couldn’t be further from the truth as they were both lovely and great fun to have around. Just a shame about the bad hair days though…

Harry and Dave: They were the gadget guys armed with every last detailed topo map of the Nahanni! Harry was the analyst, while Dave was the creative one experimenting with certain combos of food that would probably kill any normal human being.

Peter: The repetitive composer of the Nahanni Blues who drove us insane with the lyrics of “my baby’s dead. She got hit by a train.” He took his composing very serious and many a morning I saw him all blurry eyed due to lack of sleep (or was it Roy’s snoring which he will never admit to?)

Roy: He was our resident coffee snob but also my early morning coffee buddy. We were the two coffee pot loiterers eagerly awaiting the signal for “coffee’s ready!” I found Roy to be a very good judge of character and was amused by some of his analysis.

Jean-Pierre: He was our fun-loving Frenchman from Lyon whose face lit up every time alcohol was involved. He had a great sense of humor and was good fun to have along.

Eve: A very friendly bubbly character with an endless amount of energy. I somehow suspected that she ran on batteries…She was also my paddling partner and had the ability to crash into large waves in the most unsuspecting places.

Peter and Mary: They made a very good husband/wife paddling team and were also the diligent guardians of the sacred chairs.

Our guides:

Curtis: He could make fire with anything from ice, rocks, water, metal to any other type of non-flammable material. A very good guide with a lot of knowledge.

Becca: She was our pancake queen and could make them with military precision. She also liked to “read” the map instead of rowing!

Ingrid: She was asleep most of the trip. I think I only saw her awake a few times but I can’t really be sure!